Grandstand. Culinary France, like political France, seems to me today to look more to the past than to the future, as if our cuisine seemed destined to return to the recipes of the past. Indeed, the know-how inherited from Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935) and the cuisine of the first half of the twentiethAnd century seems to be making a powerful comeback on our charts.
I don’t deny their importance or their delicacy, but I wonder if today’s cuisine can be reduced to its past. Shouldn’t it rather be a test bed, conducive to creation? Are we ready for a French cuisine that favors an avant-garde approach?
Gastronomy has given me so much that the observation of its regression cannot leave me indifferent. In this predilection for the recipes of the past I read the refusal of innovation and the renunciation of tasty and daring tomorrow. I see a throwback, nostalgic and oh so comfortable.
However, the search for new culinary horizons is the only possible way to move the kitchen forward, to give it the energy it needs to satisfy the changing appetites of today’s consumers. This approach to progress must also allow our food to respect the constraints imposed by the protection of our planet.
This backward culinary movement tends to conceal essential issues and prohibit necessary developments. Like other creative professions, cooking is an organic matter that must remain open to influences, new practices or the latest technologies. Current fashion cannot be defined only in the old sketches of the great new-look couturiers. As with architecture, it too is advancing with the times: witness the hair-raising projects of Jean Nouvel.
You need to know how to keep your eyes open to the world in order to patiently add layers of knowledge from other horizons to the common dish of gastronomy. French cuisine has become a master in this field: it knows how to perfectly integrate this knowledge which makes it more and more interesting.
I know exactly to what extent France today has a totally exceptional density of culinary talent. This gastronomic offer never ceases to amaze and delight me. I meet talented chefs, women and men, of all ages and nationalities, based in Paris and the regions, concerned by today’s challenges, brave in their ability to face.
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