Chicken kyiv, “the most contested cooked dish in the world”

In May 1990, when the Soviet Union was in an advanced stage of disintegration, its leader, Mikhail Gorbachev, gathered several regime dignitaries for a dinner at the Soviet embassy in Washington and essentially acknowledged the defeat of theUSSR. It was the end of “socialism in one country”, the fallback doctrine of the Russian Communist Party. “We understand that we live in a world, in a civilization”, sums up the Soviet leader. The dish that the party secretary general and his guests had just tasted was a wonderful illustration of the new Russian internationalism and consumerism. Chicken kyiv: a Russian specialty that has invaded supermarkets all over the world.

For the Russians, kyiv chicken was invented in the Moscow region under the Empire. The recipe – chicken breast stuffed with a butter sauce and coated in breadcrumbs – is said to have been perfected in XIXAnd century by a Ukrainian chef, hence the misleading name. The anecdote reflects Russia’s traditional attitude towards Ukraine well [avant le déclenchement de la guerre par Vladimir Poutine] : let it exist as a separate entity, but still tightly controlled by the former imperial master. [Après l’annexion de la Crimée par] Russian Federation, the administration canteens did not hesitate to rename the dish “Crimean chicken”.

The French claim that the Russians stole the recipe from them. France is in their eyes a

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Drawing by Martina
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Source of the article

1843 (London)

In March 2016, The Economist changed the format of his bimonthly Smart life to open it more to the world and rename it 1843 – reference to the year of creation of the famous English weekly. Designed to be read “When we slow down, during the weekend or on vacation”, 1843 uses the network of correspondents of The Economist around the world and specialized freelancers to tackle various topics: culture, design, fashion, technology, gastronomy, travel … From 2020, the publication exists only online.

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